Oct 2615 min read

Walking in Byron’s Favourite Countryside Spots

Updated: Nov 5

By Janine Moore

All photography by Janine Moore, except for Felley Woods & Priory gardens by Marysia Zipser

Byron’s Dream ‘ by Ford Maddox-Brown (1821-1893) Manchester Art Gallery. (Byron and Mary Chaworth)

We have been lucky enough to discover the natural beauty of the landscapes where Lord Byron walked and found inspiration for some of his early works. The Misk Hills and Felley woods are some of the most scenic and inspiring places imaginable. Felley woods has a magical feel about it with the relaxing sounds of nature, bird song and a bubbling stream winding through it; in springtime watch for wild garlic and bluebells. If you’re lucky enough and you’re very quiet, you may see a wild deer in the distance. I especially love it when there’s streaks of sunlight bursting through the trees, and in autumn the woodland comes alive with stunning autumn colour. My favourite season. Standing upon the top of Felley Mill Lane and just to the left hand side on the ridge, you can look down to Felley woods and look carefully you’ll see Felley Priory where the Chaworth family home is. The lane winds down the hill here with some very well established trees either side. You will now be in the place you see in the main image, the painting by Ford Madox Brown, Byron’s Dream, depicting Lord Byron sitting with his first love Lady Mary Chaworth and his beloved dog Boatswain. We’ve sat here many times admiring the views over those stunning landscapes.

There are benches all along the ridge now that provide various places to sit and rest, to ponder and to daydream.

Whether you are a poetry enthusiast, or not, this countryside offers numerous trails that bring Byron's world to life.

My family and I often walk in countryside areas that provoke thoughts of Byron’s poetry and I do highly recommend visiting Newstead Abbey, the gardens and parkland, it's such a joy to explore the grounds. For many years we have also enjoyed walking the trails and woodland of Sherwood Forest where it is easy to envision why Lord Byron might have been inspired by the stunning yet peaceful surroundings. Some of Byron’s works mention certain Nottinghamshire areas or at least are obvious landmark locations, but he enjoyed walking and horse riding throughout much of the areas local enough to explore, and a few examples are listed below.

Newstead Abbey Park The grounds of Newstead Abbey, where Byron resided part of his time during 1808-1814, remain open to the public and offer one of the most atmospheric walks in the area. You can wander through beautifully landscaped gardens, explore hidden lakes, and marvel at the abbey’s Gothic architecture. The wooded paths, serene water features, and historic ruins are perfect for imagining Byron strolling through, reflecting on both his writing and personal turmoil. The Newstead Abbey website will help you with opening times and events.

https://newsteadabbey.org.uk/

Tip: Be sure to visit the poet’s former study and the small boat on the lake, where Byron would sit to meditate or write. The gardens are particularly stunning in spring, with blossoming flowers enhancing the scenery.

Annesley Hall and Woods Just a few miles from Newstead Abbey are Annesley Hall, the home of Mary Chaworth, Byron’s first love. Though now a ruin, the hall and its surrounding woodlands offer a romantic and hauntingly beautiful walking route. The unrequited love Byron felt for Mary Chaworth deeply influenced his early works, particularly The Dream, which immortalizes his affection for her. Walking through the Annesley estate, you can trace the emotional history of their connection and explore the same paths Byron would have wandered in his youth.

Address for finding the Annesley Hall area is Annesley, Nottingham NG15 0AS

The hall is not open to the public.

Tip: The woodland trails offer a quieter, more intimate connection with nature. opt for a guided walk to understand more about the historical context of Byron’s relationship with Chaworth.

The Forest of Sherwood The famous Sherwood Forest, only a short distance from Byron’s Newstead, was another of the poet’s favourite spots for riding and reflection. Known for its ties to the legend of Robin Hood, the ancient oaks of Sherwood also captured Byron’s imagination. Today, visitors can walk along well-marked trails that wind through this ancient forest, with its dense trees and sprawling greenery providing the perfect escape into the natural world.

Finding Sherwood Forest visitor centre: Forest Cor, Edwinstowe, Mansfield NG21 9RN

Tip: Try the 3-mile Major Oak Trail, a leisurely circular walk that brings you to the heart of the forest and offers plenty of scenic spots for a reflective rest, much like Byron would have done.

The other Dukeries locations that link with Sherwood Forest are Rufford Abbey and Country Park, Clumber Park, and the Welbeck Estate.

Walking the Misk Hills.

The Misk Hills, one of our favourite countryside walks, are known not only for their natural beauty but also for their rich historical significance, so here is a little of the known background of this lovely area that I thought you might find as interesting to discover as it was to me.

Geologically, these hills are part of the Sherwood Sandstone, a formation that is over 200 million years old, dating back to the Triassic period. Historically, they have served as both natural landmarks and strategic locations. Their elevated position made them a valuable vantage point throughout different periods in English history, and evidence suggests they were likely used by early settlers for defensive purposes and as a watch point over the surrounding landscape.

In medieval times, the Misk Hills area played a role in local conflicts. Nottinghamshire, with its forests and hills, was a significant part of the kingdom due to its proximity to the north-south routes of England. The Misk Hills were likely important for local lords and nobility who controlled the area, as the hills would have offered both a natural defence and a lookout point. The landscape of the region, combined with the woodland cover, made it conducive to farming and small communities, which thrived despite the challenging terrain.

The hills have long had a connection to folklore and local tradition as well. Legends around the Misk Hills often emphasise their mystical qualities and ancient past. They were once thought to be the resting place of spirits or supernatural forces, giving rise to stories that have been passed down through generations. Today, the Misk Hills are valued for their scenic beauty, hiking trails, and historical significance. Preserving these hills has become important to local communities, not only to maintain a connection to the past but also to celebrate the natural landscape that has been a part of the region for thousands of years.

We enjoy many happy days walking the Misk Hills with our family and dogs, it is a gorgeous, enchanting place that captivates us and inspires our love of nature.

One of my favourite Byron poems is perhaps this one. It feels like he is showing his enjoyment of walking a different path and the pleasure of solitude in nature's beauty, which I enjoy too.

Childe Harold's Pilgrimage [There is a pleasure in the pathless woods]

An excerpt;

‘There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,

There is a rapture on the lonely shore,

There is society where none intrudes,

By the deep Sea, and music in its roar:

I love not Man the less, but Nature more. ‘

I feel the poem shows an enjoyment of solitude spent in natural environments.

Lord Byron’s connection with the Chaworth family.

Lord Byron, the famous Romantic poet, had a complex and tragic connection with the Chaworth family, specifically Mary Chaworth. Mary was the love of Byron's youth and the inspiration for many of his early romantic writings. The Chaworth family was a well-established, noble family with a long history in Nottinghamshire, owning Annesley Hall, a grand estate near Byron's ancestral home, Newstead Abbey.

When Byron was a young man, he met Mary Chaworth, who was older than him by a few years and who captivated him with her beauty and spirit. Byron fell deeply in love with her, yet Mary saw him as a boy and did not return his affections. She famously dismissed him, which left Byron heartbroken, but the experience fuelled much of his early poetry, where he frequently revisited this unrequited love. Poems like The Dream reflect his longing for Mary and the sorrow of losing her to another man, John "Jack" Musters, whom she eventually married.

Mary's marriage, however, was unhappy, marked by personal tragedy and tension. Byron went on to lead a famously turbulent life filled with scandal, travel, and literary success, but he never quite forgot Mary. His experiences with her, combined with the romance of the family estates of Newstead and Annesley, left a lasting mark on his poetry and life. This early heartbreak at the hands of the Chaworth family became a part of Byron's legend, contributing to his image as the quintessential Romantic figure.

The Dream

The Dream is a poem written by Lord Byron in 1816. Some say the poem is an expression of "central Romantic beliefs about dreams". It also describes the beautiful view from the Misk Hills, not too far from Byron's ancestral home in Newstead, Nottinghamshire.

An excerpt from Lord Byron’s The Dream ‘I saw two beings in the hues of youth

Standing upon a hill, a gentle hill,

Green and of mild declivity, the last

As 'twere the cape of a long ridge of such,

Save that there was no sea to lave its base,

But a most living landscape, and the wave

Of woods and corn-fields, and the abodes of men

Scattered at intervals, and wreathing smoke

Arising from such rustic roofs: the hill

Was crowned with a peculiar diadem

Of trees, in circular array, so fixed,

Not by the sport of nature, but of man:

These two, a maiden and a youth, were there

Gazing—the one on all that was beneath

Fair as herself—but the boy gazed on her;

And both were young, and one was beautiful:

And both were young—yet not alike in youth.

As the sweet moon on the horizon's verge,

The maid was on the eve of womanhood;

The boy had fewer summers, but his heart

Had far outgrown his years, and to his eye

There was but one beloved face on earth,

And that was shining on him; he had looked

Upon it till it could not pass away;

He had no breath, no being, but in hers:

She was his voice; he did not speak to her,

But trembled on her words; she was his sight,

For his eye followed hers, and saw with hers,

Which coloured all his objects;—he had ceased

To live within himself: she was his life,

The ocean to the river of his thoughts,

Which terminated all; upon a tone,

A touch of hers, his blood would ebb and flow,

And his cheek change tempestuously—his heart

Unknowing of its cause of agony.

But she in these fond feelings had no share:

Her sighs were not for him; to her he was

Even as a brother—but no more; 'twas much,

For brotherless she was, save in the name

Her infant friendship had bestowed on him;

Herself the solitary scion left

Of a time-honoured race.—It was a name

Which pleased him, and yet pleased him not—and why?

Time taught him a deep answer—when she loved

Another; even now she loved another,

And on the summit of that hill she stood

Looking afar if yet her lover's steed

Kept pace with her expectancy, and flew.’ ~ Lord Byron To set the scene of Lord Byron’s Romantic moment sitting with his first love, Mary Chaworth and his beloved dog, Boatswain at the Misk Hills. The painting is Byron's Dream (Byron and Mary Chaworth) by Ford Madox Brown. The painting is the main image we’ve used here, and a great spot to walk to and sit in reflection and rest.

Felley Priory

Felley Priory, a historic estate and former monastic site in Nottinghamshire, has a notable connection to the Chaworth family. Originally established in the 12th century as an Augustinian priory, Felley was dissolved during the Reformation under Henry VIII, and its lands were granted to prominent local families. Eventually, the Chaworth family, who had deep roots in the region and were one of Nottinghamshire's prominent noble families, came to hold Felley Priory.

The Chaworth family’s ownership of Felley Priory contributed to its significance as part of the interconnected estates of the Chaworth-Musters line, which also included Annesley Hall. The priory, which was transformed into a residence following the Reformation, became part of the Chaworth legacy and was associated with the history of the family for centuries. As with Annesley Hall, Felley Priory is surrounded by a rich landscape and historical lore, with gardens that have become well-known in the region.

The connection between Felley Priory and the Chaworth family highlights the deep ties they had with Nottinghamshire's historic properties, which are rich with both architectural heritage and personal stories. Today, Felley Priory is celebrated for its beautiful gardens and remains a symbol of the region’s noble heritage, linked to the long and storied past of the Chaworth family.

Location of Felley Priory and parking for walks.

Felley Priory is located just off the M1 motorway in Nottinghamshire, near the village of Underwood, about 12 miles north of Nottingham and close to the towns of Hucknall and Mansfield. The official address is Felley Priory, Underwood, Nottinghamshire, NG16 5FJ.

The priory has a designated parking area for visitors, located near the entrance to the gardens and tearoom. Parking is typically free, though visitors should check ahead during special events or busy seasons, as there may be specific arrangements in place. Felley Priory is well-signposted from the main roads, making it relatively easy to find, especially when approaching from the M1 (usually via Junction 27).

Visitors come mainly to enjoy the stunning gardens and to explore the priory's historical grounds, so parking is set up with ease of access in mind for these areas.

Greasley walks with Lord Byron in mind.

We sometimes walk through the summer meadows and woods at Greasley, it’s truly idyllic and relaxing, it has an ageless feel about it, nothing seems modern, the fields around have very old established trees along them and the meadows are so full of natural beauty, we like to listen to the birds and watch the breeze blow the wildflowers and grasses about, sometimes we are lucky enough to spot birds of prey overhead hunting. The woodland too, looks and feels untarnished. A joy to walk through, there are some bird feeders in the woods, placed by some kind person, and in this opening you can watch a multitude of small birds feeding. It gets very muddy through the woods and there’s a small stream running through it with crossing points. Good boots are needed any time of year. Tip: Good boots are needed any time of year.

Here’s a little background information on the area.

Greasley, is a historic village in Nottinghamshire, and it offers lots of scenic walking trails and locations connected to the legacy of Lord Byron. Greasley is part of the Nottinghamshire countryside that inspired the Romantic poet and I can understand why. Byron was known for his love of wandering through the countryside, and Greasley’s natural landscape and historical spots make it a fitting location for walks dedicated to his memory.

Popular routes in the area can lead walkers past landmarks such as Greasley Church, which dates back to the 13th century and would have been familiar to the Byron family, this is where we park. From Greasley, trails also connect to Moorgreen Reservoir and the nearby fields, providing landscapes similar to those Byron roamed in his youth although of course in modern day they have changed just a little. These walks capture a sense of the pastoral beauty that surrounded him, marked by wooded areas, open fields, and the gentle hills typical of Nottinghamshire.

Walking through the Greasley area, with its connection to Byron and proximity to Newstead Abbey, brings a sense of stepping back into the poet’s world. Local walking groups and history societies occasionally organize themed walks, including storytelling and poems inspired by Byron’s life. We’ve noticed that on those days, the parking area gets quite busy. For those wanting to explore Nottinghamshire as Byron did, Greasley and its trails offer a serene and rich experience.

We discovered the Greasley area as a random place to stop for a walk and found it to be fantastic for gentle walks through those beautiful meadows and the woodland walks with a gentle stream running through it. It’s truly idyllic especially through the summer when the meadow flowers are fully in bloom and the grasses tall and beautiful. In winter the mud can be more tricky but it’s still a lovely place to relax and knowing that the poets Lord Byron and D.H.Lawrence once walked here and took inspiration from this wonderful landscape. We park outside Saint Mary’s church. 100 Church Rd, Greasley, Nottingham NG16 2AB

There is a nice little tea room next to Saint Mary’s church. The parish oven tearooms if you choose to stop for refreshments.

Epitaph to a Dog

If you do have an opportunity to visit Newstead Abbey you must go to the memorial of Lord Byron’s most revered dog, Boatswain who was born in Newfoundland May 1803 and died of rabies at Newstead Abbey in Nov 1808. Lord Byron nursed his favourite dog throughout the dogs sickness regardless of the risk of contracting rabies.

The inscription on Boatswain's memorial stone reads. ‘Near this Spot

are deposited the Remains of one

who possessed Beauty without Vanity,

Strength without Insolence,

Courage without Ferocity,

and all the virtues of Man without his Vices.

This praise, which would be unmeaning Flattery

if inscribed over human Ashes,

is but a just tribute to the Memory of

BOATSWAIN, a DOG,

who was born in Newfoundland May 1803

and died at Newstead Nov. 18th, 1808.

When some proud Son of Man returns to Earth,

Unknown to Glory but upheld by Birth,

The sculptor's art exhausts the pomp of woe,

And storied urns record who rests below:

When all is done, upon the Tomb is seen

Not what he was, but what he should have been.

But the poor Dog, in life the firmest friend,

The first to welcome, foremost to defend,

Whose honest heart is still his Master's own,

Who labours, fights, lives, breathes for him alone,

Unhonour'd falls, unnotic'd all his worth,

Deny'd in heaven the Soul he held on earth:

While man, vain insect! hopes to be forgiven,

And claims himself a sole exclusive heaven.

Oh man! thou feeble tenant of an hour,

Debas'd by slavery, or corrupt by power,

Who knows thee well, must quit thee with disgust,

Degraded mass of animated dust!

Thy love is lust, thy friendship all a cheat,

Thy tongue hypocrisy, thy heart deceit!

By nature vile, ennobled but by name,

Each kindred brute might bid thee blush for shame.

Ye! who behold perchance this simple urn,

Pass on, it honors none you wish to mourn.

To mark a friend's remains these stones arise;

I never knew but one—and here he lies.’

~ Lord George Gordon Byron. I’ve included this beautiful dedication to Byron’s beloved dog Boatswain because it shows that he too had such a deep love for dogs as well as nature’s beauty and the countryside landscape. His romantic works are a feast for the soul but the love he shows for all of nature is wonderful. Our walks through Byron’s favourite countryside places gives us an understanding of where he found some of his inspiration for many of his early works. I’ve always loved the inscription to his dog, Boatswain. I too once owned a dog called Boatswain, he was a lovable sweet black and tan long haired dachshund, my first dog when I was 16.

Lord George Gordon Byron 200th Centenary of his Death

The 200th anniversary of Lord Byron's death in 2024 marked a significant milestone, honouring his legacy as one of the most influential poets of the Romantic era. Commemorations took place worldwide, especially in Greece and the United Kingdom, where his contributions are celebrated both for his literary genius and his dedication to Greek independence. In Missolonghi, Greece—a place where Byron spent his final days fighting for Greek freedom—events were organised to celebrate his commitment and sacrifice, with tributes, poetry readings, and exhibitions showcasing his impact on the nation’s history and culture.

In Ravenna, Italy, the Byron Museum and Risorgimento Museum reopens on Friday the 29th November 2024 after extensive renovation, now inside Palazzo Guiccioli, overlooking the central Via Cavour. This was Byron’s home in Ravenna , and home to the noble Guiccioli family during the 19th century, between 1820 and 1821 the palace hosted the famous English poet George Gordon Byron, who came from Venice to follow his beloved young and beautiful Teresa Gamba, wife of the owner of the palace, count Alessandro.

Walking in Byron’s Favourite Countryside Spots

1 Comment